So in answer to Yve's query of "Did you make this up out of your head or did you have a pattern?"
Short answer? No, yes and then some. Long answer...
I was shown a pic of a Gothic Lolita outfit and asked if I could make something similar. After a bit of hemming and hawing I said yes. I mean I went to school for this sort of thing! Which my husband was so kind to point out "that was like 15 years ago". Shush. So anyway! I am a pattern & book fiend so anytime I need a refresher I can bust out any amount of reference from the overflowing tubs in my closet or pull something off my shelves.
I two-third to three-quarter drafted the pattern which you can seen in the left of this image hanging from the door.
Rather than start from absolute scratch (which I can do but why reinvent the wheel?) I made a copy of a Butterick pattern's (4154) basic princess line bodice and graded it down a couple sizes since the gal this is for is pixie sized. I then added the double breasted extensions to the front, redrafted the collar, drafted the gathered tail for the bodice, added 10 loops to the the back for lacing.
And we can't forget that the bodice has 14 buttons (only 7 buttonholes though, 2 sneaky snaps underneath), has a massively gathered tail, full lining, tailored sleeves and gobs of lace.
*Deep breathe* Oh, I'm not done yet.
The lace started life as 4" wide embroidered scallop eyelet lace that I split down the center for this project, minutely gathered and applied to every edge. The skirt is 3 yards wide and will be gathered down to fit a flat 25" waistband!
*Whew* so there you have it. The secrets of the Lolita Outfit ;) It's starting to look like something one of Yve's dollies would wear huh? More pics soon!